The three-and-a-half-day Geneva watch fair is over. It seems that every year the watch fair will bring a lot of surprises and expectations, and this year is no exception.
At last year’s Geneva watch and clock exhibition, Roger Dubuis focused on its revived Hommage series and launched the Hommage Double Flying Tourbillon. This new work is equipped with a new RD100 calibre consisting of 452 hand-finished parts and equipped with a 50-hour power reserve. It took 1,200 hours to make (of which 360 hours were devoted to meeting the Geneva Seal certification standards), and then received a full 6 weeks of testing.
This year’s Roger Dubuis did not launch a new movement. Instead, it focused its attention on the appearance of the watch. The skeleton movement technology was used to show the architectural beauty and superb machinery. It launched a number of skeletons in its Excalibur King series. Craft watch.
The watch hollowing process is a watchmaking process derived from the art of engraving, which is similar to the art of paper-cutting. The craft was once in danger of being lost, and was finally revived in 1930. Swiss watchmakers devoted a lot of time and effort to finding this traditional craft that once flourished in the eighteenth century but was then forgotten. Most artisans use ordinary movements as the basis, first use a needle to drill the part to be hollowed out, and then use a saw to remove excess metal. The next important step is to use a sculpting knife to trim all the edges into a 45-degree beveled edge, and to engrav the movement surface into different patterns. The perfect craftsmanship is not just about carefully crafting every angle, but every layer of parts must minimize the obstruction of seeing through the underlying movement.
At this Geneva watch and clock exhibition, Roger Dubuis’s pavilion design is interpreted in a fantastic and strange mechanical world, which strongly presents Roger Dubuis’ creative theme in 2015: hollow beauty. In line with its representative fields, the miniature oscillating weight and flying tourbillon introduced new timepieces with infinite pioneering spirit, presenting the interstellar hollow concept in a variety of dazzling styles.
Let’s review the most watchable models of Roger Dubuis at this Geneva watch exhibition:
Excalibur Spider Skeleton Double Flying Tourbillon
The first is a new masterpiece of the skeletonized watch of the Excalibur King series, which was officially launched under the name of the Excalibur Spider.
As the only brand in the watch industry with a hollow double flying tourbillon watch, Roger Dubuis naturally shoulders new conditions and missions in this field. This watch, full of technology, outdoor spirit and car style, brings a completely new temperament to the Excalibur King series.
The various fiery red aluminum elements on the inner ring, crown and ring of this model are in sharp contrast with the titanium alloy of the case and the black DLC-coated titanium alloy, showing an eye-catching and vibrant sports style. With a variety of color choices, the British style is compelling. The chronograph button is made of aluminum, while the rubber strap is paired with a folding clasp for a secure and comfortable fit. The chronograph lap around the double tourbillon and the small seconds hand timer have a design similar to that of a speedometer, which strengthens the watch’s sports characteristics and racing style.
This watch is limited to 188 pieces and is equipped with Roger Dubuis’ RD01SQ movement. It displays a variety of amazing features in a multi-layered structure consisting of a case, a bezel and a movement. The unique three-dimensional visual effect of the watch seems to present a wonderful contemporary urban landscape, combining superb machinery and architectural beauty.
Excalibur Spider Skeleton Flying Tourbillon
The rubber that symbolizes technology and sports and the precious diamond that means ‘eternity’, these two are irrelevant, as if they belong to two worlds, it is not expected on this watch. Its top bezel is set with 60 baguette-cut diamonds weighing 2 carats, which is ingenious.
The actual physical obstacles encountered when setting gems on a material that is as elastic as rubber makes it almost impossible to achieve. The production must have perfect and skilled technical control over the material thickness and elastic deformation. Roger Dubuis devoted two years of research and development to this unique technology, which was created with great care by the well-known Geneva gem setting expert Pascal Vincent Vaucher, and registered a ‘Stones in the sky’ patent to protect this Breakthrough invention.
The star-shaped design of this watch, the Celtic cross-shaped tourbillon frame, is equipped with various superb refinements on the Roger Dubuis RD505SQ manual-winding movement, including round grained polished splints. The titanium case has become a powerful carrier of hollowing technology, and it has both a light and solid feeling, and a titanium three-leg lug, which is full of visual impact. This watch is limited to 88 pieces.
In addition to rubber-set diamonds, there are titanium bezel scale models that look sporty.
Excalibur Automatic Skeleton
This time, Roger Dubuis also launched his first self-winding skeletonized watch, which is a wonderful interpretation of the design of a skeleton miniature rotor.
This self-winding skeleton watch is available in rose gold, diamond-set rose gold and black DLC-coated watches, each with an elegant and chic finish. The RD820SQ self-winding skeleton movement is equipped with 167 parts, and the surface of each part is individually fine-tuned and refined. The iconic hollow star shape highlights and complements the design of the hollow miniature rotor.
This self-winding oscillating weight oscillating watch has the ultimate control ability on the combination of technology and aesthetics. It not only bets on the highest-end and most sophisticated professional technology in gear operation and processing refinement, but also breaks through The winding mechanism and the limitation of the micro-rotor, while providing sufficient power, will express the hollow-out process to the movement.
In the past, Roger Dubuis has shown a unique interpretation of high-end women’s timepieces through a series of jewellery watches, such as his Velvet series. This time, Roger Dubuis created a novel and ingenious jewellery timepiece for the Excalibur King series. It also performed a new look of femininity for the hollowing out process. It introduced the Excalibur Brocéliande by combining the superb craftsmanship and complex aesthetics Brassillon watches.
Roger Dubuis and Jewelry Inlay experts worked together to create a set of poetic timepiece trilogy with ivy leaves as the theme, the first of which was the first in this SIHH 2015 Geneva International Haute Horlogerie Degree debut.
The recurring natural theme of ivy is often found in literature and mythology. Ivy symbolizes strong emotional attachment, and it also means faith and eternity. The watch released this time presents this evergreen plant in a subtle and powerful way, with its leaves winding around the dial, symbolizing an intimate relationship. Some decorative jewellery elements are also delicately wrapped around the hollowed-out flying tourbillon movement and dial, making it difficult to distinguish the boundary between the two.
This watch is limited to 28 pieces, each set with approximately 3.44 carats of diamonds, with a gorgeous red strap. Its rose gold case is cleverly combined with diamond-set bezels, lugs and bezels, while autumn-colored semi-precious stones are embellished with slim gold-encrusted ivy branches. The slender bezel and bezel are inlaid with double-row bright-cut diamonds, which enhances the overall multi-level three-dimensional visual effect. The crown is inlaid with rose-cut diamonds. Equipped with RD505SQ manual winding movement.
Summary: If Roger Dubuis was Hommage last year, this year it will be dedicated to Excalibur. Although the brand has not launched a new model of the movement, it incorporates elements of architectural art, fashion avant-garde, and other special materials Inlays, hollow movements, and other methods prove Roger Dubuis’s superb skills in craftsmanship, coupled with the outstanding shape of the Excalibur avant-garde, can be described as eye-catching and worthy of attention.
For more details, please click on the watch live event in Geneva: