PatekPhilippe launched this year at the Basel International Watch & Jewellery Show this year as a new addition to its Nautilus complication series, giving the chronograph a traveler time function that indicates the time between the two places. The new watch combines two widely sought-after complication functions, but also serves other purposes and facilitates daily life.
For nearly forty years, the casual and elegant Nautilus series watches have always enjoyed the glorious status of classics. This collection combines extraordinary functionality with rugged endurance. The shape and sturdiness of the case are two important features of this model from beginning to end. The integration of complex functions such as the analog date display and moon phase display adds to its charm. In 2006, Patek Philippe launched the first Nautilus chronograph. This chronograph is obviously the work that watch connoisseurs who love sports look forward to. Today, this coveted chronograph adds practical travel time features, hence the name Nautilus Traveller Chronograph Ref. 5990 / 1A.
A journey through time
The second time zone display and timing two complex functions appropriately represent the personal lifestyle of travel and sports in today’s era: traveling around the world, but never forget the source (home). For time zone functions, the new Nautilus Traveller Chronograph features two coaxial hour hands. The hour hand at the bottom is cut out, while the hour hand at the top is the same as the minute hand. The hollow hour hand indicates the home time, while the solid hour hand indicates the local time. When the wearer is in the place of origin, the two times are the same, and the two hour hands overlap. When the wearer enters another time zone, he can press the plus and minus adjustment buttons to adjust the local time hand back and forth in units of one hour. When traveling east, the local time hand must be adjusted clockwise, and when traveling west, the hand needs to be adjusted counterclockwise. The hollowed-out hour hand is not affected by this adjustment and continues to indicate the home time. In addition to this feature, the Nautilus traveller’s chronograph also integrates two independent day / night display windows, labeled ‘LOCAL’ and ‘HOME’, to display the day and night time in different time zones. With this feature, people who go out will not be late at night, and unintentionally the phone will affect family members who are resting far away.
Nautilus is built for travel time features
For the Nautilus chronograph to integrate travel time functions, it is necessary to redesign the case and develop a new movement. The unique porthole shape and two side hinges make the Nautilus case ideal for this new design. The right hinge protects the crown, while the opposite left hinge sets the time zone plus and minus adjustment buttons. Because these external components closely adhere to the original shape of the case, the distinctive shape of Nautilus is retained. However, for the case craftsman, this seemingly simple shape brings an extremely difficult challenge in the actual production process: each button must be individually drilled in the case, but the waterproof performance still needs to reach 120 meters (12 atmospheres). However, the new Nautilus traveller’s chronograph finally met all the stringent requirements for waterproof performance, which fully reflects the highly accurate manufacturing process of Patek Philippe Case Workshop and the skilled use of the latest sealing technology.
During the redesign process, the two timing buttons at 2 o’clock and 4 o’clock, respectively, are closer to the crown. After moving to the new position, the two buttons can more directly transmit instructions to the chronograph movement, which can be felt from its clear trigger position and soft force feedback. In addition, the new layout allows enough space to integrate the date correction button near the lugs at 1 o’clock.
Today the world-renowned Nautilus stainless steel bracelet is closely connected to the case, the outer links are frosted, and the center links are mirror-polished. This bracelet ensures that the watch is comfortable to wear and fits tightly on the wrist, while the stainless steel folding clasp provides extra security.
Dial: NAUTILUS with a novel design but still without a doubt
The new time zone function also affects the dial design. The traditional Nautilus style is displayed in a new layout. The black dial has a light-dark gradient effect from the inside to the outside, with the familiar Nautilus horizontal relief pattern, and is decorated with 10 18K white gold three-dimensional hour markers. The day / night display window, as a new design element, is located slightly below the center axis: at 9 o’clock and 3 o’clock respectively, the former corresponds to the fluorescent hour hand indicating the local time, and the latter corresponds to the hollow-out hour hand indicating the home time. The new analog date display at 12 o’clock and the new 60-minute cumulative timer at 6 o’clock complete the dial. This dial has a clear layout.It is distributed with the Barton-style fluorescent hour hand indicating the local time, the same-sized home-origin hollow hour hand, and a longer Barton-style minute hand that is shared by the two time zones and is also covered with Superluminova fluorescent coating. . The slender chronograph seconds hand is made of rhodium-plated stainless steel, with a large counterweight, and it has the same sword-shaped design as the small white lacquered hands at 6 o’clock and the 60-minute cumulative timer. A delicate visual balance with the delicate white lacquered white gold-toned date hands at 12 o’clock.
Another new movement of Patek Philippe
The above-mentioned complication features have been adopted in other Patek Philippe timepieces, but they are the first combination in the new Nautilus traveller chronograph. Therefore, the new CH28-520CFUS movement came into being. On the basis of the travel time movement, a timing device using a traditional star wheel design and an innovative disc clutch was added. The ingenious and practical device of travel time can be traced back to a patent obtained by Patek Philippe in 1959. It can not only adjust the local time in one hour as a unit, but also change the time zone setting completely independently of the travel time train. This can prevent the time zone adjustment from adversely affecting the balance swing and travel time accuracy.
The local time date display (in the Ref. 5980/1 Nautilus chronograph, the date display is at 3 o’clock) is repositioned to the 12 o’clock position and the pointer display is used instead, and the single timer at 6 o’clock becomes 60 minutes Accumulation timer. This small change actually requires the addition of 47 parts. However, the thickness of the movement is only 0.3 mm larger than the original organic core. This is partly due to the brand’s patented Spiromax® hairspring made of Silinvar® material, replacing the larger Breguet double-layer hairspring in the escapement. Due to the clever geometry, the escapement oscillates in a plane, but the swing is balanced and isochronous.
Other characteristics of this movement are already well known. The watch is automatically wound by a 21K gold central rotor. The Gyromax® balance, invented by Patek Philippe 60 years ago, has a vibration frequency of 28,800 half-pendulums (4 Hz) per hour. The perfect finishing of the movement includes the chamfering of the edges of the splint, the Geneva stripe decoration on the splint surface, and the Geneva grain pattern on the automatic rotor. Through the sapphire crystal caseback, you can admire the unparalleled perfection of this mechanical movement, which will make real watch lovers fall for it.
In view of the success of the casual and elegant Nautilus chronograph, Patek Philippe was inspired to add the extremely popular time zone function to the collection, thus adding a fascinating masterpiece to this complex series. The new Patek Philippe Nautilus traveler chronograph Ref.5990 / 1A will replace the stainless steel bracelet Nautilus chronograph Ref.5980 / 1A that was first introduced in 2006 to commemorate the 30th anniversary of the birth of the Nautilus series.